Year Established: 1970
Products: Blazers, Trousers & Overcoats
Shop: Sartoria di Maurizio
In a land of rolling hills, old villages, and indulging flavours, not too far from Arezzo, you’ll find Maurizio and his sartoria. Our jackets and trousers are crafted in this family workshop which has been a local landmark since it was set up in the ‘70s.
With more than 40 years of tailoring experience on his shoulders, Maurizio exudes confidence when he talks about his suits. Every time we visit him, we learn something new; his knowledge is mesmerizing like a glass of local Brunello di Montalcino.
Maurizio started out young in a renowned sartoria in Florence. During his years there, he picked up from the local sartorial tradition and perfected his own version of a deconstructed, lightweight, everyday jacket. Since two decades, Maurizio is the head tailor in our partner workshop. Here, with passion and expertise, he coordinates his team of 12 specialized artisans to craft each garment exactly the way it should be, with processes and techniques perfected over the years.
To craft our jackets and trousers Maurizio relies on a strategic balance of technology and tradition. Working with digital CAD patterns, each piece of the garment is created and carefully placed on a life-sized worksheet with the help of a specialized software. The placement is done in a way to respect any pattern matching required, while at the same time minimizing fabric consumption and waste. For our MTM clients, the pattern is first altered according to the specific measurements and edits registered.
Once the computer work is done the worksheet is plotted on thin paper and used by one of Maurizio’s artisans to cut the fabric by hand. For our RTW productions, Maurizio uses a convenient electronic cutting machine which is programmed directly from the software.
Now that the fabric, lining, and other components are cut, the garments are assembled by 5 artisans, each one responsible for a specific aspect of the sewing. Their skills are the most apparent when attaching the sleeves to the shoulders of our jackets. To guarantee more movement, the sleeves are cut bigger than the shoulder head, so the tailor has to meticulously work the sleeves into the shoulder. In Maurizio’s workshop this process is done in the traditional spalla a camicia way (the ‘shirting shoulder’), where the sleeve of the jacket is placed underneath the shoulder panel, very much like a shirt.
After sewing the buttons and buttonholes, the garments are ultimately pressed to perfection. For our jackets, since they are formed with either none or minimal interlining, a skillful ironing work is needed to achieve the most pleasing silhouette. Before leaving the workshop, each garment undergoes a strict quality control to ensure that the crafting and measurements are spot on.